Answering Your Questions From the Skincare Ingredient Webinar
Thanks for all the great questions you sent during our recent webinar with Tom Vierhile of Innova Market Insights called How to Choose the Best Ingredient for Your Sustainable Skin Care Formulation. There were so many that we did not have time to answer them live. Here, we’ve gathered them all and appreciate the chance to provide recommendations for some of your formulation challenges.
Trends with Innova Market Insights
Consumers seem to favor ingredients they are familiar with for skincare products. How receptive are consumers to new ingredients entering the space?
The good news is that consumers are keeping an open mind when it comes to new skincare ingredients. According to Innova’s Beauty, Household, and Personal Care 2023 survey, just over 40% of American consumers believe that new technologies and ingredients can make personal care products more effective. This leaves the door open to innovative new ingredients and new ingredients with a story behind them, especially one that references hot button topics like sustainability, may have an inside track here.
Globally, consumers in Brazil and China are most enthusiastic. Over 70% of Brazilian consumers believe that new technologies and ingredients can make personal care products more effective.
Is Innova Market Insights seeing any new trends in skin care that could have an impact on ingredient use and innovation in the future - trends not mentioned so far?
One trend that is a “sleeper” and could evolve into something serious is around the skin microbiome. Few, if any products, were talking about the skin microbiome just a few years ago. As recently as 2018, the claims were non-existent. But today, we’re starting to see companies talking about the skin microbiome and how this has an impact on whole body health. This is also tied in with the use of prebiotic and probiotic ingredients.
Regarding the skin microbiome alone, Innova reports that 2% of facial skin care products mentioned the skin microbiome in 2022. Ingredients that can either improve the health of the skin microbiome or at least not negatively impact it could be in a sweet spot, going forward.
Inflation has been a huge issue. Are consumers willing to pay for products that claim to be sustainable, especially when they may cost more?
This is a tough question. Consumers consider a variety of factors when they are shopping for products and sustainability is one of many attributes that may be considered. Price and performance are likely to rank as higher concerns for consumers, but the good news is that 4 in 10 American consumers say they are willing to pay more for personal care products that are sustainable.
The big question is probably how much more, and that is something I do not have an answer to. What we are seeing in the food and beverage space here at Innova is that the halo around environmental claims is expanding to the point where sustainability is becoming a more important facet of the “clean label” trend, one that has the potential to move the sales needle, moving forward.
KELCOSENS™ Citrus Fiber
What is the difference between KELCOSENS™ Citrus Fiber and other citrus fibers in the market?
Single step and direct extraction from peels helps to retain pectin, which boosts KELCOSENS™ Citrus Fiber’s effectiveness as an emulsion stabilizer. Other citrus fibers are produced once the pectin has been extracted.
Replacing Emulsifiers & Synthetics
Can you explain how UniqSens™ SFE Emulsifier-Free System, KELCOSENS™ Citrus Fiber and KELCO-CARE® Diutan Gum work to stabilize emulsions?
All three are effective at stabilizing emulsions in personal care product development. We like to call KELCO-CARE® Diutan Gum a “super xanthan gum” that stabilizes and thickens with a silky feel and no tack. UniqSens™ SFE System is a xanthan-based blend optimized to provide stability and flexibility in process as well a more desirable sensory compared to single ingredients. KELCOSENS™ Citrus Fiber is the newest stabilizer in our portfolio. It delivers a remarkably refreshing and light feel while being upcycled from food waste.
Is xanthan gum an emulsifier?
Xanthan gum is not a traditional emulsifier, but it can be used to help stabilize emulsions by providing high viscosity to the water phase, which slows the movement/agglomeration of droplets.
Which of your gums is not an emulsifier but will provide a stable emulsion?
KELCOSENS™ Citrus Fiber and UniqSens™ SFE System are two great, nature-based ingredient offerings for developing emulsifier-free systems. But you could say that all of our ingredients can contribute to stable emulsions by providing viscosity to the water phase. Some are more efficient thickeners than others, some work in limited pH range or require heat, and each contributes a unique feel or texture. These factors all play a role in deciding which ingredient to incorporate in your formulation, and we are always happy to advise on product recommendations for specific needs.
Can synthetic emulsifiers be replaced 1:1 with KELCOSENS™ Citrus Fiber?
This really depends on your specific system and the rest of your formulation. For instance, if you are trying to replace waxy emulsifiers (such as PEG-100 Stearate), you may find the need to include a waxy component in your oil phase to maintain the same feel. Also, the stabilization mechanism is completely different so every formulation needs to be assessed.
What are the best natural thickeners for increasing the viscosity of a shampoo formula based on alkyl polyglucoside?
We might recommend KELTROL® Xanthan Gum since it is an efficient thickener that works in robust conditions. It has a wide working pH range and is compatible with many surfactant types/levels. It can be easily incorporated and is cold-processable with transparent grades available.
If you also are working with a sulphate-free formula, GENUVISCO® CG-129 Carrageenan could technically be a good option in this case. Here is a prototype for you to try.
How can your products influence transparent label and sensory properties when replacing synthetics in general?
Our portfolio of nature-based and bio-based ingredients provides a broad range of sensorial benefits when utilized alone or in combination with one another. From upcycled KELCOSENS™ Citrus Fiber to GENU® Carrageenan and beyond, each product is developed on purpose, with a good sustainability story to back it up.
We can provide you with a life cycle assessment so you can see for yourself. And, we can help you achieve your product goals – everything from silky thin serums to gels to luxe creams. We would be happy to help if you are looking for a specific sensory profile. We also have options to support vegan, ECOCERT® and COSMOS® certification claims.
Nature-Based Innovation
Do you have anything new? What else is coming/should we expect next?
We are texture experts; however, you can expect from us more understanding coming soon on the functional performance of our ingredients beyond rheology. For example, the area of skin health.
What do consumers who emphasize natural ingredients expect the functionality/efficacy of the natural ingredients to be?
According to some of the interactions that our customers have experienced, consumers tend to believe that natural means “healthy” or “good for you” and “good for the planet”. Whether it is an active ingredient or a supporting ingredient, we’ve noticed that consumers generally believe the manufacturer has found a better alternative; one that leaves the world in a better place as well.
Are microbiome friendly ingredients considered to be natural/sustainable products?
Generally speaking, if an ingredient is friendly to our skin’s microbiome, then it means that it is much less likely to irritate skin or disrupt the microbial balance. Some natural/more sustainable ingredients can have a positive impact on the microbiome by helping to maintain the diverse skin ecosystem.
Are these ingredients only for cosmetic formulation? Do you have some in food contact grade?
Yes, CP Kelco produces a full range of nature-based and bio-based ingredients with grades that can be used across a variety of applications. We started approximately 90 years ago making pectin for food applications such as jams and jellies. Our products are now utilized in the food, pharmaceutical, oral and personal care, household, and oil and gas industries. We have grades available to address the needs of our customers and can help them meet organic, halal, kosher, non-GMO and other clean label-friendly goals.
Texture Challenges
We are trying to use KELTROL® CG-SFT Xanthan Gum in sulfate-free, transparent body wash. When do you recommend adding xanthan gum during processing to get the best transparency?
We recommend adding xanthan gum early in the process (before surfactants, after chelator), but this is more to ensure full hydration, which can affect transparency. You could also make a slurry or pre-blend with other powders (if any) to prevent lumps and assure proper dispersion.
What is your advice in terms of use level for KELCOGEL® Gellan Gum to obtain a sprayable texture?
Somewhere around 0.05% should still allow for sprayable texture while providing stabilization benefits when using KELCOGEL® CG-LA Gellan Gum.
Do you advise to combine KELCOGEL® Gellan Gum with another gum to optimize stability and sensoriality?
Sun Care
What do you have for sunscreens?
Here are some bio-based ingredient options for you:
- UniqSens™ SFE System is a great sunscreen stabilizer. It is highly compatible with multiple UV filters, as well as various processes and equipment. It is a ready-to-use solution for a seasonal final product.
- KELCOGEL® Gellan Gum and its fluid gel technology enable suspension in thin, sprayable liquids, providing an ideal wider spray pattern compared to other nature-based solutions, as well as heat resistance that can help the emulsion stay stable over summer’s high temperatures. Try this free sunscreen prototype to see for yourself: Let’s Get Physical Sunscreen Recipe Card.
Is it possible to use KELCOSENS™ Citrus Fiber in sun protection?
Yes, KELCOSENS™ Citrus Fiber can be an effective stabilizer in sun care and deliver a slight cooling effect that can be refreshing on the skin. It should be used at 1-2% and a pH between 3.0 and 6.0. It is best when used with a supporting emulsifier or stabilizer.
Will KELCOSENS™ Citrus Fiber provide the same efficiency as synthetic stabilizers?
It will provide great emulsion stability. However, it will generate less viscosity per gram used. We don’t have a direct comparison, but we expect large differences in expected usage levels:
- Synthetic stabilizers expected usage level: 0.1%-0.5%
- KELCOSENS™ Citrus Fiber expected usage level: 1.0%-2.0%
Will KELCOSENS™ Citrus Fiber work with especially high SPF?
SPF does not affect KELCOSENS™ Citrus Fiber However, the pH of the overall formula will affect its performance. Different UV filters may require different pH levels to function properly.
- Most chemical, organic and non-mineral UV filters can be used at pH 5-6 with no problem.
- PBSA is an organic UV filter that requires pH > 6.8 to avoid crystallization and thus will not work with KELCOSENS™ Citrus Fiber.
- PBSA is an organic UV filter that requires pH > 6.8 to avoid crystallization and thus will not work with KELCOSENS™ Citrus Fiber.
- Mineral sunscreens using zinc oxide are normally formulated at pH 6.5-7.5 which is outside of the acceptable pH range for KELCOSENS™ Citrus Fiber.
- Zinc oxide requires pH > 6.5 to avoid dissolving and destabilizing the formula.
- Mineral sunscreens using titanium dioxide without zinc oxide can be made at pH 5-6 and should work just fine with KELCOSENS™ Citrus Fiber.